SB 389 
.04 
Copy 1 



GRAPE CULTURE 




,B. P. JOHNSON, v' 



IN \ S- IV-^IA'-K 

IS;.Y. STATE 



I .-J '-.vNY.X-Y. 



STEUBEN COUNTY. 



FPtEl^IUIvd: ESS^Y. 






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ALBANY: 

VAN BENTHUySEN'S STEAM PRINTING HOUSE. 
1865. 



GRAPE CULTURE 



IN 



STETJBE^^ COUISrTT. 



3PREMIUM ESS^Y. 



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j^^-^^^^j^L ^-^ c::t<:/-.^.:.*^a^c.u^<" '^^y 



ALBANY: 

VAN BENTHUYSEN'S STEAM PRINTING HOUSE. 

1865. 



COPYRIGHT SECURED. 



S3^'<''1 









GRAPE CULTURE. 



^ REPORT COMMITTEE. 



The undersigned committee on essays, &c., at the winter meeting 
of the N. Y. State Agricultural Society, Feb. 8, 1865, report that, 
the only essay handed in for their examination, is one upon Grape 
Culture in Steuben county, by the Hon. Goldsmith Denniston. This 
subject was not one of those for which premiums were offered, and 
it must therefore be considered that the society is under greater 
obligations for a work unasked for, but in the opinion of the com- 
mittee of exceeding value. Mr. Denniston's essay is a very com- 
plete work, it has a practical, a suggestive, and an historical value. 
Admirably arranged, exhausting the subject, minute in instructive 
detail, it is both a guide to the grape culturist of America, and a 
record of the rise and progress of a new and important branch of 
agricultural industry in our country. We recommend that the 
executive committee award to Mr. Denniston a premium of thirty 
dollars, being the highest premium offered for an essay by the 
society; and that they also thank Mr. Denniston for the vast amount 
of labor and research he has so successfully brought to bear upon 
this interesting subject. 

T. L. HARISON, 

J. STANTON GOULD, 

H. TEN EYCK FOSTER, 

Committee. 
February 9, 1865. 



[From Transactions New York State Agricultural Society, 1864.] 

GRAPE CULTURE 

IN 

STEUBEN COUNTY 



BY G. DEXXISTOX, PRATTSBURGH. 



Previous to the year 1852, the vine received but little attention in this 
section of the State. Some gardens had one or two vines, which grew 
untriramed and unoared for, running over the fence, or perhaps over the 
limbs of a tree. If they produced fruit it was used for '• preserves," and 
hardly an individual deemed it worthy of keeping ''for the lointer'" for 
" table use'^ — so little tade had the good people for this, the richest and 
most wholesome of all fruits. 

It was the current opinion that our climate was unfavorable to the pro- 
duction of grapes that were of any value as an article of food or for the 
manufacture of wine; that, what was grown would be deficient in sugar, 
and in the " aroma" peculiar to the perfectly matured article. The opin- 
ion also appertained that the European grape, of France, Spain, Italy and 
Germany, were the only varieties that were worthy of cultivation; and as 
these failed in our climate, the infei'cnce drawn was that " we could not 
grow grapes." 

We had extremely imperfect ideas of the capacity of our climate for the 
growth of the vine, as well, in every respect, for its requirements. We 
did not understand that " tempei^ature" is not a precise guide, but that 
other conditions also govern; and although our climate exceeds in humid- 
ity the vine-growing districts of Europe, yet, our atmosphere is drier as 
a mean, and is certainly more dry and elastic. 

This alternation between humidity and dryness is probably the reason 
that the European grape will not flourish in our climate, and consequently 
these varieties are very much restricted in our country, particularly, east 
of the Rocky mountains. 

It is known that in Europe the cultivation of the vine has been pushed 
to the extreme limits of climatic capacity, and in sheltered valleys it is 
grown successfully far north of other places too cold and variable for its 
production. 

M. Blondeau, writing on the subject of grape culture says, " The deter- 



mination of the conditions of climate in which the culture of the vine is 
possible, is of practical as well as theoretical interest. Knowing that any 
particular locality has long been devoted to this culture we are able to fix 
the mean temperature thereof, and by studying the circumstances preju- 
dicial to the development of the vine, avoid the failures so often experi- 
enced by those who undertake this culture where it is impossible." 

" The grape requires four months, or one hundred and twenty days, to 
come to maturity; we can calculate the aggregate of temperature required 
to perfect its growth. Bordeaux, in France, being in latitude 44^" 50', has 
a mean temperature in spring of 56°, in summer of 71°, in autumn of 58°; 
mean for spring, summer and autumn of 62° 40'. And, as Bordeaux is 
near the centre of the wine districts of France, a data is furnished, other 
things being equal, of the climate required for the cultivation of the vine.'' 

It is an interesting study to investigate the particular features of the 
various vine-growing districts in Europe and the United States, and to no- 
tice that neither latitude, nor elevation, nor the amount of rain falling gov- 
erns, but that other causes combine to render the cultivation certain and 
profitable. Also, to notice that the range of temperature is not so much 
controlling as we are inclined to believe. The grapes of Astrachan are 
said to be equal to the best of Italy, and the range of temperature there 
is more extreme than in nitiny places of our own country. 

Astrachan is in latitude 4(i° 21', on a level with the sea; has a mean 
temperature in spring of 52° 6', in summer of 75° 9', in autumn of 52° 4', 
in winter 19° 2'; making a mean for the year 50°. 

California is undoubtedly the most favorable for grape culture of any 
part of the United States. The vineyards there produce, ordinarily, twice 
as much as the vineyards of any other grape district. The crop never 
fails, as it does in every other country. The soil is a deep, sandy loam, 
and in some places a rich, black loam and a gravelly clay. Tiie climate is 
dry and uniform, which insures the grape from rt)t or mildew. 

The mean temperature of California for January is 44.2, for February 
45.4, for March 53.4, for April 54.8, for May 62.7, for June 69.1, for July 
69.4, for x^ugust 71.3, for September 71.1, for Oct(jber 65.4, for November 
54.9, for December 46.2; the spring average being 56.9, the summer 69.9, 
autumn, 63.8. 

A writer on the meteorological conditions necessary to the production of 
grape wine of the best quality, says, " In addition to a summer and an 
autumn sufficiently hot, it is indispensable that at a given period — that 
which follows the appearance of the seeds — there should be a month, the 
mean temperature of which does not fall below 66.2, Fahrenheit." 

September and October in California has a mean temperature of 68.2, 
maturing the grape with sufficient sugar to make the fruit luscious and the 
wine rich and of the very best quality; consequently, the wines of that 
state come nearer to the wines of Italy than any produced upon the Ameri- 
can continent. 

The soil of the grape-growing district in the county of Steuben is pecu- 
liarly adapted to the cultivation of the vine; the geological formation being 
of the Chemung sandstones and shales, disintegrated to a great depth and 



full of crevices, through wliich the water can pass, indicates a soil free 
from the action of surface water, and consequently warm and loose. Ano- 
ther peculiarity marks the district in this, that deep ravines pass from the 
hill tops into the valley, making- a perfect drainage of the intervening 
space, and an exposure the most favorable to secure a high temperature in 
summer and autumn. Many of the headlands present a surface at right 
angles with the sun's rays, and receive a temperature much higher than 
their latitude and elevation would otherwise warrant. 

This district being on the slope of the west shore of the Crooked lake, a 
sheet of water of great depth and of unusual purity, which remains un- 
frozen the most of the winter season, it softens the extreme cold, protects 
the incipient vegetation of spring, and prolongs the growing season in 
autumn, by preventing the recurrence of early frosts. The effect of the 
waters of the lake is that of an equalizing influence upon the temperature, 
rendering it less liable to sudden changes and more adapted to the growth 
and maturity of the finer varieties of grapes and fruit. 

The mean temperature of the period during which the growth and ma- 
turation of the grape takes place, exercises a remarkable influence, and 
the more uniform the temperature, at the requisite figure, the more certain 
will the grape mature to the requisite perfection. 

It is known that the recurrence of frosts in September and the begin- 
ing of October, will injure the grape so as to render it unfit for the table, 
and the wine made scarcely drinkable. It is very essential that the ripen- 
ing process of the grape be not retarded or interrupted by a low tempera- 
ture or the occurrence of early frosts. 

The peculiar formation of the slope of the west shore of the Crooked 
lake, secures a temperature even, and extended into October, ripening the 
grape to the requisite maturity to produce good wine. As an illustration, 
we present a map of the "Pine point farm," showing the ravines through 
which the water passes into the lake, and the slope of the hills and inter- 
vening ridges. It is deemed a fair specimen of the grape lands of the 
county. 

The hills in this vicinity rise in regular slope, or in a succession of ter- 
races some four hundred feet; back of which are farm lands of great fer- 
tility, and hills five and six hundred feet in their rear. The soil of these 
hills is a shaly loam, mixed with clay; it is open, free, and extremely 
warm, receiving the sun's rays directly; and in mid-winter the tempera- 
ture is mild and equable, the lake scarcely freezing over. It is one of those 
sunny, warm spots where the snow drifts are scarcely seen and the cold 
blasts are hardly felt. There is a spring atmosphere prevailing here when 
upon the hills above winter reigns with all its accustomed rigor and se- 
verity. In such secluded nooks the grape delights to grow, and by suita- 
ble cultivation yields abundant crops of the choicest varieties. 

A vineyard has been planted upon this property, and it is the intention 
of the proprietors to appropriate the whole (168 acres) to the cultivation 
of the vine. 

About the year 1830 the Rev. William Bostwick set some vines atHam- 
mondsport, which grew and produced fine crops. The varieties were the 




8 

Isabella and the Catawba. He succeeded in raising these varieties of 
grapes in perfect maturity, but be^^ond his eflbrts none were made in that 
vicinity for years. About 1843 William Hastings terraced the side hill 
west of the village of Hammondsport, for a garden, and planted therein 
vines of the Isabella and Catawba grapes, from which he realized a suc- 
cession of fine crops. From that time onward to 1855, Mr. Hastings' gar- 
den yielded the principal returns of grapes, except it be a few vines scat- 
tered through the village. And his fruits and vegetables were the admi- 
ration of the citizens of all the surrounding country. 

The first attempt to plant a vineyard was made by Andrew Reisinger, a 
German, who by profession was a vine-dresser, being brought up to the 
business in Germany. He came to Harmonyville, in the town of Pulteney, 
in 1853, and selected a bluff, upon which he planted about two acres, and 
succeeded in producing good crops of Isabellas and Catawbas. He 
trenched the soil, and cultivated the vine as in his native country, not 
allowing it to form large branches, but trimmed it down, so as to have the 
bearing canes near the ground, the fruit receiving the benefit of the 
reflected rays of the sun and the heat radiated 
from the soil. He trained his vines to stakes, 
and did not permit them to grow more than four 
feet in height; and where they were trellised 
the}'' were kept of the uniform height of from 
three to four feet, in the form of a low trellis as 
here represented. 

This vineyard is now owned and occupied by D. S. Wagener, Esq., of 
Pulteney; and having been enlarged, is in fine bearing condition. The 
grapes of the present year (1864) have been a full crop, and of a very fine 
flavor. 

The scenery adjacent to this vineyard on the south is more than rural, 
it is picturesque. A deep ravine cuts the hill asunder to the depth of 
more than one hundred feet, through which roars the waters passing from 
the hills. In summer it is the babbling brook; in spring, and time of 
flood, the fearful torrent, carrying rocks, trees and rubbish down to the 
flats below. We give a map of the location, from actual survey. It is in 
character with many other places on tlie lake shore. 

South of Mr. Wagener' s is the vineyard planted by C. C. Baldwin, Esq. 
It contains about one acre, and is in fine bearing condition. Mr. Baldwin 
has lately sold it, together with about ten acres of land and a small cot- 
tage house, for two thousand dollars, which the purchaser deems a good 
bargain. Mr. Charles AVixam is the present owner. 

Mr. Prentice has a fine vineyard south of this, on the slope of the hill, 
towards the lake shore. He has been a successful cultivator of the grape 
for many years, and a ramble through his grounds gives one an idea of the 
pleasure arising from a view of beautiful scenery and of rural taste. 
These vineyards all repay their proprietors for all the care and the labor 
'they bestow. 

The first vineyards started in Pleasant Valley proper was in 1855, by 
Hon. Jacob Larrowe and Orlando Shepard, each of whom planted about 



half an acre, on the slope of hills south-west from Hammondsport. They 
procured their vines (Isabellas and Catawbas) from Avon, in Livingston 
county. The soil selected for their vineyards was of a character peculi- 
arly adapted to the growth of the vine, being- dry, porous and of extremely 
easy tillage. It is a gravelly loam with a substrata of shale, the debris 
of which is largely incorporated in the soil. In this soil the roots of the 
vine take deep hold, and the canes grow with great luxuriance. They 
trained their vines to trellis, allowing them to grow to the height of 
about six feet, in i-ows about eight feet apart. They kept the ground 
free from grass and weeds, and usually well tilled. Sometimes they 
planted beans between the rows, which produced enough to compensate 
for the dressing. These two vineyards were so productive as to induce 
others to turn their attention to the business, and thence arose a depart- 
ment of productive industry heretofore unknown in those parts. Finding 
that their vineyards were successful in the production of crops, both Shep- 
ard and Larrowe set out two or three acres more in 1858, and their success 
induced others to embark in the business and thus extend the area of grape 
culture throughout the valley. 

Clark Ball, Esq., in connection with Judge McMaster, set out about six 
acres, on the blufif, adjacent to the village of Hammondsport. Grattan H. 
Wheeler purchased the Decker farm, south of Judge Larrowes', and 
planted four acres upon the gravelly ridge nortli-east of his residence. 
Charles D. Champlin set out one acre upon the rise west of the wine cellar, 
where the slope is to the south-east. Timothy M. Younglove set out one 
aci^e upon a warm bluff, where the sun's rays had full force and the bleak 
winds were shut out. S. B. Pairchild planted his vineyard upon the lake 
shore, just north cf Hammondsport, in terraced rows, giving a fine, warm 
exposure, where the fruit matured finely, and the yield was abundant. His 
vineyard occupied one acre, which has since been much enlarged. Mr. Ed- 
win F. Smith also set out two acres upon the rise adjacent to the village, 
south of the stone mill, and succeeded in raising fine grapes. 

Aaron Y. Baker, having examined the vineyards of Cincinnati and of 
Kelly's Island, opposite the city of Sandusky, in Ohio, purchased cuttings 
at the latter place and brought them home with him. A stimulus was 
thus presented to the citizens of the valle}', who entered with renewed zeal 
into the business of cultivating the grape. Mr. Baker planted his vineyard 
south-west of the wine cellar, where the hills break towards the west, 
affording a fine exposure to the south, and securing quite, or more than an 
average from year to year. His crop, in 1862, yielded over 9,000 pounds 
to the acre, while the average throughout the valley is placed at 4,000 
pounds. The vines procured by Mr. Baker and planted, were chiefly the 
Catawbas and the Isabellas. 

The vine requires for its growth a warm exposure, though not too hot, 
and a moderate degree of moisture. This condition is found to exist in a 
high degree upon the slope of the hills adjacent to the Fleasant Valley and 
to the west shore of the Crooked lake. The banks of the lake shore and of 
the various gulleys through which the water passes down to the valley and 
the lake are especially favorable to the grape. These gulleys, made by 
2 



10 

the torrents of the waters gushing from the plateaus, afford complete pro- 
tection to the vine; and the formation of the soil is such as to require but 
little culture beyond the initial preparation of the soil for the reception of 
the roots. 

Most of the vineyards of which we have made mention have been set 
with cuttings, which being put into the earth, (which has been made rich, 
and deeply tilled,) from three to four inches apart, and being mulched 
when the weather is too dry, they strike roots, and are fit the next spring 
to set in the vineyard. 

Some few have propagated the vine by layers: the shoots near the 
ground are fastened down below the surface of the ground, and tlie eyes 
will strike roots, and being cut asunder, form distinct vines, ready to set 
the next year in the vineyard. 

Where extremely scarce varieties are desired, they are obtained by sin- 
gle buds, or eyes. These are caused to grow in a warm apartment, under 
glass, where the temperature is warm and uniform. The most sure pro- 
cess to start the eyes is by a bottom heat of sand, where the eyes are 
placed and forced to strike roots.. 

The soil selected for the vineyard, if a side hill, has been generally ter- 
raced into distinct plateaus, but some, where the slope would allow, set 
their vines without this preparation, and by various means have rid the 
surface of water, and their vineyards grow finely. 

Some have planted their vines in rows, not more than six feet apart, 
while others have made the space ten feet. This latter is deemed much 
the best for the Isabellas and Catawbas, as they are strong growing varie- 
ties, forming an abundance of wood. 

The most common mode of training the vines have been on " trellises" 
and principally upon the " low system.^' The young vine is pruned back to 
two eyes, as at A, from which two shoots are obtained the following sum- 
mer, as at B B. 





By cutting, the season following, the vertical shoot at C, the vine will 
form shoots as follows : 

These, with proper management, are trained upon 
the trellis and made to produce fruit and to form 
wood, as the cultivator may desire. The usual 
course is to have fruit-bearing arms and wood-grow- 
ing arms each year, in order to secure full crops 
from year to year successfully. 

The trellis is formed by setting posts into the 
ground some ten or twelve feet apart and passing three wires of suitable 
size (say No. 12) between them. This forms a reliable and substantial 




11. 

support to the vine. Some drive stakes into the ground and nail slats, 
one inch by three, upon them, which forms a temporary support, but they 
soon decay and have to be renewed. 

Some of the most careful cultivators of the grape train their vines upon 
the loio trellis in such a manner that the bunches of grapes will be near the 
ground and i-eceive the warmth radiated from the surface, which insures an 
early maturity and a rich flavor to the fruit. The grapes growing near the 
surface of the ground are generally found to ripen sooner, to ripen more 
thoroughly, and to exhibit more of ^^ the aroma'" which is produced at a 
certain stage of the maturity of the grape ; which, if not arrived at, no 
aroma is discovered, or which, if interrupted at the precise stage, it is 
greater or less, as the case may be. 

The perfect maturity of the grape is of more importance than many cul- 
tivators are willing to admit, and the difference in this respect is very dis- 
cernable in the different vineyards of Pleasant Valley and the lake shore. 
Some are quite willing to risk the quality of their crop for the sake of the 
quantity produced, and allow their vines to grow too much to wood, to be 
trained too high ; while a few discerning and careful cultivators rely more 
upon the quality and train their vines accordingly. 

In an examination of the vineyards of Pleasant Valley, in the autumn of 
1862, by request of the State Agricultural Society, and with a committee of 
its appointment, this difference of training was noticed particularly in the 
effect it had upon the aroma of the fruit. The vineyard of Charles D. 
Champlin was strictly trained loiv, and many of the bunches hung within 
a foot of the surface of the ground ; these were noticed as being fully ripe 
and rich in aroma, while some, three feet higher, were still unripe and 
extremely acid. Other vineyards were noticed to present ripe, aromatic 
fruit, or be deficient therein as the training was low or high. 

We present the above observation as of great importance to cultivators 
of the vine, as the quality of their grapes are valued for the table, as well 
as for wine, in proportion to the peculiar flavor they possess, derired from 
the aroma they contain. 

Pruning has for its object the formation of the plant and the direction of 
the flow of the sap. As the vine bears best on branches which come from 
the wood of the previous year's growth, wood of a similar cliaracter must 
be produced for the next year's crop. 

The wire trellis is represented as follows : 




12 





The training- of the vine to a single 
stake allows some diversity, which 
the careful cultivator will pursue as 
the crop and his fancy may dictate, 
bnt the absolute rnle is always to be 
observed : to trim and to train in 
such a way as to furnish bearing- 
branches for each year, and to allow 
the grapes sufficient air and sun- 
shine. The simple stake training, 
without any pretence to fanc}', is as 
follows : 

But the bow and stake system al- 
lows of more diversity in form, and, 
when properly pursued, will furnish 
more wood from which to produce fruit, and thus secure a larger crop. 

The "double bow" is based upon 
tlie same principle, but is faulty in 
its results, as it retains too much 
wood. 

The objects of each mode of train- 
ing should be the equal diifusion of 
sap throughout the length of the vine 
and a steady growth of all the buds, 
so as to produce a large growth of 
fruit from the bearing wood, and to remove that to give place to new 
wood for succeeding crops. 

We give also a view of the spiral form of 
training. It is claimed to admit more air 
and light within the branches. 

The following represents the distaff sys- 
tem of training. It is very pretty, by way 
of variety, and suits some species of vine 
that grow "twiggy," but it requires great 
skill in sustaining the system throughout so 
as to produce good fruit. In the primeval 
forests of our country, we 
found the native vine grow- 
ing in festoons upon the trees, 
and to the extent, so as to 
cluster along the topmost 
branches. Some of these 
^^ vines were found to produce 
^ ''S^ extremely good fruit, white, 

■^ ""^ " blue and creamy in color, of a rich, sweet 

flavor, though to modern palates would be deemed rather " too foxy." 






13 

The Isabella will grow and ripen fine crops upon trees, probably more 
so than any other variet3^ 

The Italian grapes are trained upon the trees. In the language of the 
poet, after they have obtained suflScient root and stalk, 

"They brave the winds, and, clinging to their guide, 
On tops of elms at length triumphant ride." 

The aroma of the grape is no doubt produced by the skin, in connection 
with the acids formed during tlie stage of ripening, and such grapes as 
are possessed of the most perfect aroma produce wines of a peculiar rich 
flavor, known under the name of ''bo7iquet," and all the wines of that grade 
have a favorable reputation throughout the world. 

If the grape does not ripen fully it becomes too acid to be relished, and, 
in keeping, becomes too watery, and, consequenty, musty, in which condi- 
tion it is without flavor, and, consequently, the cultivator should notice the 
peculiar conditions under which his crops are improved or deteriorated. 

Some of the vineyards of Pleasant Valley and along the shore of the lake 
were kept in perfect order, regard was had to the roots as well as to the 
stems, to keep them in conformity with each other. Where the soil was 
not naturally loose, it was thoroughly tilled so as to allow the roots to 
strike deep into the soil. Other vineyards were noticed to be much neg- 
lected in this respect, as though their proprietors did not recognize the 
influence which the roots had upon the grapes, and, consequently, upon the 
wine, or the benefits derived from "root pruning" equal with that of the 
branches. 

The old Romans understood all this in the cultivation of their vineyards, 
and one of their authors write : 

" Bo mindful, when thou hast entombed the shoot 
With store of earth around to feed the root, 
W ith iron teeth of rakes, and prongs, to move 
The crusted earth, and loosen it above." 

The training of the vines to stakes is not usual in the vineyards of which 
we have made reference. Yet many of the German cultivators advocate 
that system as being the mode of pruning and training in their native land. 

Where the vines are trained upon stakes, they need not be set more than 
six feet apart, as the intervening spaces will permit sufficient sunshine and 
air to enter to secure early and full maturity' to the grape. 

The vineyard planted by Mr. Reisinger, in Pulteney, of which we made 
mention, was trained in this manner, and was not allowed to exceed j^ue 
feet in heighth. But the prevailing mode is the trellis. 

The cultivation of the vine had become so much extended in Pleasant 
Valley and along the shore of the lake, that, to ensure a steady market for 
their grapes, it became important to organize a company for the manufac- 
ture of wine and brandy. Heretofore they had depended upon markets at 
a distance and experienced much inconvenience in the sale of their crops, 
and very often a great depreciation in the transit of their grapes to the 
market. 

In the year 1860 the association known as the "Pleasant Valley Wine 
Company" was formed, with a capital of ten thousand dollars. Those who 



u 

were active in organizing the company were Charles D. Champlin, William 
Baker, Aaron Y. Baker, T. M. Younglove, G. H. Brundage, Delos Rose, 
Grattan H. Wheeler, Clark Bell, J. W. Davis, D. McMaster and Dugald 
Cameron. 

The company secured the services of John F. Weber as superintendent 
to manage the details of the wine and brandy manufacture, as also of the 
propagation of vines for sale and for future vineyards. Mr. Weber, being 
a German by birth and education, had acquired great experience in grape 
culture and in the manufacture of wines and brandies. Aside from this, 
he was a man of refinement and general intelligence, bringing with him all 
those qualifications calculated to ensure success in the department of busi- 
ness to which his services were called. 

Under the supervision of Mr. Weber the company erected a spacious 
wine-vault — a press house. They procured a suitable distillery for the 
manufacture of brandy, also a wine-mill, of the Hickock patent, and erected 
a house for the propagation of vines. These were all kept in tine working 
condition by Mr. Weber, and the success of the company was so great as 
to induce them to double their capital in 1862. 

In 1860, when the company wavS formed, Catawba grapes were sold for 
six cents per pound and Isabellas at four cents. The present year, 1864, 
the former brought nine cents and the later six cents. Fine Catawbas are 
now worth thirty cents in New York. 

The first vintage of the company, in 1860, was made from 35,990 pounds 
of grapes ; the second from 38,988 pounds ; the third from 271,825 pounds ; 
that of 1863 from 192,467 pounds ; and the fifth vintage, 1864, of about 
500,000 pounds. In 1862 the company manufactured 10,967 gallons of 
wine and 3,403 gallons of brandy ; in 1863 9,844 gallons of wine and 
1,418 gallons of brandy ; in 1864 about 30,000 gallons of wine and brandy 
in the same proportion of excess of previous years. In making the wine 
and brandy the company have used up about one-third of the entire crop 
grown in the valley ; the balance has been marketed for table use. 

They have made wines of the Still, Catawba, Isabella and Claret. They 
have also commenced the manufacture of champagne from the Catawba 
grape. In connection with the manufacture of wine, they have manufac- 
tured brandies — white brandy (medicinal), Otard brandy, and Cogniac 
brandy, all of the purest and best grades. 

Their wines and brandies are obtaining a wide reputation for purity and 
flavor. Ail the wines made in 1860, 1861 and 1862 are sold, and most of 
the 1863 vintage. Their brandies have been sold about as fast as manu- 
factured, and they find it difficult to fill the accumulating orders. 

Aside from the grapes sold to the company, large quantities of the very 
choicest are put into boxes and sold in the city and village markets for 
table use. These bring an advanced price, fifteen to thirty cents per pound, 
according to quality. The vine cultivators feel that they have really found 
an "Eldorado " in all the good times and circumstances by which they are 
surrounded. 

An important branch of the vineyard attendance is the gathering of the 
fruit at the proper time. When the fruit is ripe and its juice has attained 



15 

its peculiar " vinous taste,^' and the bunches are surcharged with a rich 
"aroma," in this state the grapes are in a good condition to be gathered. 
This should be done quickly and in dry weather. The usual vessels used 
in the gathering of the grapes is a wooden pail and a tub of a size easily 
carried when filled, and larger tubs in which to transport the grapes to the 
wine cellar. The choice bunches, intended for marketing for table use, are 
put into boxes of from eight to twelve pounds capacity and nailed tight. 

When the grapes are taken to the wine-cellar and weighed, each man 
receiving credit for all he brings, they are then run through the grape mill 
into a large vat beneath, called the "fermenting vatP By drawing off the 
juice directly from the vat and putting it into casks to ferment, the product 
is lohite wine, which is far more pure and agreeable than that obtained from 
the husks. That which is left in the vat is " watered" and allowed to fer- 
ment, is distilled into brandy, or, being watered with sugar dissolved 
therein, by means of which the husks are thoroughly soaked, these being 
pressed, produces red tvine — the color being contained in the skin. The 
wine is put into large casks, of about fifteen hundred gallons capacity, 
made of sound white oak staves in the most substantial manner. These 
casks are thoroughly purified before the wine is put in, and, when emptied, 
is washed clean, then "well sulphured and bunged up." 

In the manufacture of " Claret wine,''' the mode in use in France is pur- 
sued, as described by Lenoir, and is as follows : " The grapes are mashed 
in a large vat, containing about twelve hundred gallons, when filled a cover 
of boards is put over it and the whole, juice and husks, left to ferment. 
The husks are pressed down twice a day into the juice, and a temperature 
of sixty degrees is maintained as long as the fermentation continues — 
about fifteen or twenty days. The wine is then drawn off and put into casks 
into the cellar, where the fermentation continues until the wine is per- 
fected." 

In the process of making sparkling ivines the juice is separated from the 
husks as soon as the grapes are mashed. This is put into vats and racked 
off from time to time until the wine is clear ; then it is carefully bottled, 
to within an inch or two of the top, and corked. The bottles are then 
placed in a horizontal position. When the sediment has settled upon the 
cork, the bottles are opened and the sediment let out, after which the bot- 
tles are filled, corked and wired. The sparkling qualities of the wine is 
increased by the addition of fine sugar, which, being dissolved in wine, is 
added to the wine when the bottles are opened. 

Wines in casks must be drawn from the " lees" and put into clean vessels 
in order to prevent further fermentation and to improve the quality. In all 
cases the casks are to be filled and bunged tight. 

Under the management of the enterprising corporators of the "Pleasant 
Valley Wine Company " the culture of grapes has been widely extended, 
and several individuals are erecting ''grape houses" for the preservation 
of their crops through the winter for spring marketing in the different cities 
and villages. Strangers are coming into the valley to settle and to pur- 
chase land for vineyards. 

It has been observed, by those who have examined different districts of 



16 

the United States with a view to grape culture, tJiat the shore of the 
Crooked lake presents superior advantages in respect to the vigor and 
health of the vine and in the freedom of its fruit from mould, mildew, or rot. 

Tiie waters of the lake being of great depth and fed by perennial springs 
of cold pure water, it is always, during the sunimer and autumn, much 
colder than the surrounding atmosphere, and, consequently, free from fogs, 
to which other localities are subject. The Hudson river, warmed by the 
tides flowing in from the ocean, is very much subject to a foggy atmos- 
phei'e. The valleys through which small rivers and streams run are also 
subject, for the cause that the water becomes warm through the day, and 
the Cold air of the nights or early morning becomes a medium of its evap- 
oration in dense fogs that are very injurious to the growth and maturity of 
the grape. 

The vineyards at and near Cincinnati, in Illinois, in Missouri, and 
indeed throughout all those localities where the causes above referred to are 
present, are subject to disease of the vine and of the fruit. In all these 
places we hear of the "blight" and of the "mould" and " mildewJ' The 
peculiar state of the atmosphere, induced by fug, produces upon the vine 
and the grape the minute vegetable "y?6re " or "fuvgus" which is known 
to naturalists under the denomination of " mycelium, ^^ the "spores" of 
which contain the " sporulea" or seeds, which develop in time ''mould" 
or " oidium." 

In the localities above referred to the parasitic fungus with which the vine 
is affected makes its appearance as a small blotch upon the surface of the 
leaf, and spreads so rapidly tliat in a few days every part of the vine is 
covered with minute " spores." Each of these spoi-es is a seed vessel con- 
taining thousands of seeds or " sporules" all endowed with vegetable 
vitality, and the fruit of the vine is enveloped over its entire surface with 
a coating of mould, and the grape shrivels up, as if dried by the scorching 
sun. It becomes totally unfit for use either upon the table as a desert or 
for the manufacture of wine. 

Pleasant Valley, and the Shore of the Crooked Lake, like Kelley's Island, 
in Lake Erie, although in theory too far out of the " Grape Zone,'" for the 
cultivation of that fruit, yet, in practice, the success has been all that could 
be desired. From the commencement of Grape Culture in 1855, nothing 
like a failure of the crop has occurred, and nothing like disease of the vine 
or of the fruit has been known to exist. 

They who have cultivated vineyards, study the habit of the vine, as it 
appeared in this locality, and arrange their mode of culture accordingly. 
A little more space is allowed the vine to breathe in the pure air, and to 
receive the sunshine, and the grape sets, grows, and matures to great per- 
fection. 

Although the vine is a " gross feeder," and will grow vigorously in rich 
soil, taking up its aliment in huge proportions, yet where the soil is in 
proper condition when " set to grapes,'^ it will produce several crops with, 
out much restoration by manure. A due caution is to be observ^ed in this 
respect ; by overcharging the soil with fertilizers, a profuse growth of vine 
is induced, with small inferior crops, but the soil requires renovation from 



17 

time to time to prevent exhaustion, and experienced cultivators have found 
marl and wood ashes a good application after the fruit is gathered in au- 
tumn, and cattle manure mixed with litter, barley and oat straw. Straw 
of beans may be applied to advantage, as they all contain a considerable 
amount of alkali. 

The vine is principally composed of lime, magnesia, alkali and phospho- 
ric acid, and any ingredient containing lime and alkali furnishes proper 
manure. Bone black is a powerful manure for the vine as it is largely 
composed of phosphorous. 

To loosen the soil straw plowed under, weeds and grass, especially 
clover, produces a fine tilth, and a free, open and loose soil. 

Experience has demonstrated that compost, if not mixed with substances 
obnoxious to the vine, is the most suitable fertilizer, because it is de- 
prived, by fermentation, of all volatile ammoniacal substances injurious to 
the vine. And all the other substances being dissolved are easily taken 
up and absorbed by the vine. 

In order to make the compost, a pit, in some shady place, ought to be 
prepared, in which to put the fertilizing substances, such as animal and 
vegetable offal, ashes, straw, turf, sods, &c., &c., and the whole covered 
with earth ; at times the whole should be turned, and sprinkled with water 
to produce a proper fermentation, and a solution of all the parts to perfect 
the mass for the application to the soil of the vineyard. 

Too much care cannot be taken in the application of manure to the vine. 
Though gross in its appetite to take in food, yet it is extremely sensitive in 
the effects produced thereby. If ingredients enter therein obnoxious to the 
vine, it will readily develop the effects in its growth and production. Nit- 
rogen in none of its conditions enter into the composition of the vine ; not 
even its leaves, and shoots contain it, and manure containing nitrogen is 
injurious. 

Upon the subject of manures for vineyards this general fact stands pro- 
minent — when the soil has become exhausted, the vines and the fruit 
become meagre, and the wine made therefrom thin and meagre, wanting 
body, and the peculiar flavor termed "bouquet." Over-manured vineyards 
will make a great show of wood, tendrils and leaves, but the fruit will be 
gumous, and the wine made will become too fat and smeary. In this de- 
partment of grape growing a discerning mind will discover the medium in 
which there is both safety and profit. 

Grape Lands and Vineyards. 

The stimulus given to grape culture by the success of the persons en- 
gaged therein, induced many others to purchase sites and to plant vine- 
yards, not only in Pleasant Valley, but also along the west shore of the 
Crooked Lake. The extreme southern part of Pleasant Valley breaks 
through the hills westward, which in their southern slopes afford fine expo- 
sure for vineyards, and these hills are now being wdiolly occupied by the 
vine. The frequent breaks in the hills, caused by "runs of water" passing 
from their summits to the valley below, give that peculiar contour of sur- 

3 



18 

face well adapted for grape culture, and a drainage of the soil necessary 
for such purpose. 

There is a striking- similarity of soil and of feature in these bluffs and 
hill sides occupied by vineyards, and, at the same time, a very great 
variety of outline, imparting much of tlie picturesque to the rural and the 
ufieful. 

Pleasant Valley being rich in agricultural products, and the hills ter- 
raced in vineyards, presents a beautiful feature — a landscape in which 
rural beauties combine to please the eye, and an adaptation for products 
scarcely to be met with in so narrow a compass. 

From Hammondsport, south west, for about two miles, the hills are cov- 
ered with vineyards almost to their summits, and the area for grape cul- 
ture will exceed four hundred acres. This is being rapidly appropriated, 
and the time is not far distant when the whole will present a ^^ terraced" 
feature similar to the bluffs in the rear of Cincinnati. 

As an illustration, we here present a map of the valley, and the adjacent 
hills which rise from four to eight hundred feet above the waters of the 
Crooked Lake. 

Within the area of the above map the lands suitable for grape culture 
will exceed eight hundred acres, of which about four hundred and fifty 
(450) acres are in bearing, and the remainder set with vines. 

The principal vineyard proprietors are A. Y. Baker, C. D. Champlin, J, 
H. Weber, T. M. Younglove, G. H. Wheeler, J. Larrowe, Geo. Shephard, 
Aaron Rosenkrans, John Allis, Mrs. Orlando Shepard, E. P. Smith, Benja- 
min Myrtle, Dugald Cameron, jr., James Covert, Bell & McMaster, S. B. 
Fairchild, A. D. Fairchild, Ed. Fairchild, Walter M. Moore, Delos Rose, 
Fred. Haase, J. Eckli, John M. Wheaton, A. Brundage, L. D. Hastings, 
Rev. J. Vorhis, A. J. Switzer, and D. Sandford. Within the range of the 
above vineyards the average yield per acre is about three tons, and the ag- 
gregate crop for the year 1864, will fall a little below that figure. 

These vineyardists deem the Catawba, Isabella, Delaware, Diana, Con- 
cord and Hartford Prolific, the most profitable fruit for their soil and 
climate. 

Northward from the section above described to the north line of the town 
of Urbana, are a fine range of grape lands, of the best exposure for vine- 
yards. Of these Mr. Nobles has sixteen acres, and several small proprie- 
tors twenty-five acres, from off of the old Cogswell farm, David Bailey 
owning the balance, and cultivating a fine vineyard of several acres. 

Mr. J. Van Est has 12 acres, and D. Bailey on his home farm some forty 
acres suitable for grapes. Northward of which is the old Samuel Drew 
farm, of equal capacity for grape cultui-e, some twelve acres being set. 

The farm of the Peter Depue heirs presents an area of more than sixty 
acres adapted to vineyards of more than a half mile lake shore, and the 
Pine Point farm of 168 acres, every foot of which is intended to be set, and 
about eighty acres of the lands of David Hatchers, Esq. 

In the south part of the town of Pulteney, vineyards are being set all 
along the shore of the Bedell farm to the extent of about ffty acres. Also 
of the Hyatt farm about thirty acres. North of which Joseph Hall has a 



19 

fine vineyard, and can appropriate about twenty-five acres to the culture 
of graphs, and about the same area from the farm of the widow Brink. 
Next north is the farm of Amos Eggleston of more than seventy acres, the 
whole of which has been purchased for vineyard purposes, and some of it 
set with vines. 

The middle district of the town of Pulteney extending from Bluff Port 
to Harmony Ville, includes some of the best grape lands along the lake 
shore. These are peculiarly adapted 6?/ ravines for division into separate 
vineyards, as is seen by the following map of the lands sold by Geo. Gib- 
son to several proprietors. 

Mr. Gibson has about sixty acres of grape land of a very choice quality, 
Captain Smith, twenty-five, and the Ed. Davis farm has all been bought for that 
purpose, as also the T. W. Boyd, and the French farms each containing 
about one hundred acres. 

The Messrs. Cross has one of the best producing vineyards in the town. 
He has made the products very valuable on account of their perfect matu- 
rity and fine flavor. His Catawbas are particularly held in high estima- 
tion. 

Larrowe& Hadden have bought the John Decker place all for grape culture 
sixty acres, and George S. Ellas, forty acres; north of whom lie the vineyards 
of Mr. Suttan, five acres; A. H. Denniston, thirty acres; Atwood, 10 acres; 
J. Neff", 7 acres; Rofif, ten acres, and David Osborn an area of more than 
forty acres suitable for that purpose. All these vineyards are in fine bear- 
ing condition, and extremely profitable to their proprietors, yielding about 
four hundred dollars per acre annually. 

From Harmon}^ Ville, northward to the town line about four miles, lies 
a range of lake shore hills, with slope and exposure unsurpassed for vine- 
yard purposes. Of the vineyards and lands of Mr. Prentice, Wixom and 
D. S. Wagoner, we have given a description and a diagram. North of 
these are the vineyards of G. Morehouse and others, often acres; of Mrs. 
Alexander and C. Parker, of several acres. 

The next farm, Peter Coon, of seventy-five acres, has been bought at 
$135 per acre, for grape culture. 

About one month previous to the sale of this farm, we met Mr. Coon. 
He had been bantered to sell, but not aware of the excitement for grape 
lands estimated the land for agricultural purposes only, and put a moderate 
valuation upon it, but as he was so frequently apprf)ached by persons 
desirous to purchase, he began to think there was something of particular 
value in his land, and rose in price accordingly. Two years ago he would 
have sold for $50; one year ago for $80; three months ago for $100, and 
one month before selling for $125. He finally sold for $135. He said "he 
did not want to sell, but speculators would not let him keep it, no matter 
how much he asked, they would come up to his price, and he was tired of 
bidding up and they accepting, so to get rid of them he sold his farm." He 
has gone west where he thinks " grape speculators will not trouble him." 

It is a fine farm with a peculiar warm exposure, and the present owners 
will make money out of it. 

Mr. Robie has lately bought forty acres lying north of the Coon farm, of the 



20 

same quality of land, and very suitable for grape culture, and Jacob Coryell 
has fifty acres of the same sort, but it will take shrewd management to 
induce him to sell at any price. 

North of Mr. Coryell lies one hundred acres of a continuous slope to the 
lake shore, with ravines, knolls, and undulations particurlarly beautiful. 
It has one of the most desirable building sites throughout the whole range 
of the lake shore, and the soil is of the very best quality for grape culture. 
To the man of taste who would combine the " usefui with the beautiful,''^ we 
know of no place more appropriate. 

This has lately been purchased by Edwin C. Barton, Esq., for vineyard 
purposes, and measures are being taken to set vines in tlie spring. In 
passing over the land we were surprised at its singularly beautifal appear- 
ance and rich soil. To convey some idea of which we give the following 
map, drawn from actual survey. 

When Mr. Barton has completed his vineyards and other improvements — 
these terraced hills and slopes — these knolls and gullies decked with the 
foliage of the vine — the evergreen and tlie oak will present a scene lovely 
and pleasant, indeed a landscape full of rural attractions and" picturesque 
views. 

North of these grounds lies the vineyard of Mrs. Pliebe V. Bedell, and 
grounds of about fourteen acres; Arnold Stewart, twenty-five acres; J. 
Watrous, forty acres, and Mr. Miller and Chitsey, from eighty to one hun- 
dred acres of grape lands. They have commenced planting and a few 
years will extend the culture over all the area suitable for that purpose. 

In this connection xxvAy be added some reference to the grape lands upon 
Bluff Point, in the county of Yates, upon the extreme southern part of the 
Point, Gregg, Vorhis & Nichols have ninety-two acres of a very fine ex- 
posure upon which a vineyard has been started. North of this are eighty 
acres owned by Pratt, Gillett and Wilkinson, and north of this two hun- 
dred acres owned by G. D. Michell, of which about eighty acres are fine for 
grapes. A. Brown owns twenty-seven acres, and still north two hundred 
and forty-five acres belonging to Thomas Van Tuyl of Plattsburgh, extend- 
ing two miles along the lake shore and all adapted to grape growing. A 
large vineyard is to be set thereon the ensuing spring. One hundred acres 
north of this is being set, and for seven miles along the lake shore are a 
succession of farms containing in the aggregate about nine hundred acres 
suitable for the cultivation of the grape. 

The above lands need no description as the}' are similar in soil and ex- 
posure to those already described in the vicinity of Harmony Ville. 

North of the line of the town of Pulteney, upon the west branch of the 
lake, the grape lands extend to Branchport, in the town of Jerusalem, 
Yates CO., and several vineyards have been started with flattering prospects 
of success. 

The grape growing enterprise, though comparatively new, is destined to 
become a source of employment and of prosperity to a large number of our 
citizens. Aside from the ameliorating tendency it imparts to the taste in 
the department of agriculture, it will stimulate many to action who have 
heretofore ^'plodded along in the old way," unimproving and unimproved. 



21 

A few years will find these lands beautifully laid out into vineyards, and 
adorned not only with the vine, but also with homes, around which will 
cluster all that can attract and beautify, and some, though humble, will be- 
come the center of all that can please the eye and gratify the taste. 

Varieties of Grapes Cultivated, 

During the incipient stages of grape culture, the Isabella was deemed 
the standard variety, as a hardy and productive vine, and as ripening 
somewhat earlier and more surely. The Isabella grape was named after 
Mrs. Isabella Gibbs, who first introduced the vine at the North. Mrs. 
Gibbs was the wife of Col. Geo. Gibbs, a merchant in New York city, and 
who resided at Brooklyn. The vine that was brought north and planted in 
his garden at Brooklyn, came from the Woodford plantation on Cape Fear 
River, in Brunswick county, N. C, belonging to his father, Mr. R. Gibbs. 
This vine grew rapidly, and bore fine crops of luscious fruit. It was when 
General Swift lived in the same house at Brooklyn that Wm. Prince saw it 
gave it the name Isabella, and introduced cuttings and roots from it to 
public notice. 

The Isabella is reputed in our vicinity as a hardy, thrifty and productive 
variety. It has a sweet, medicinal flavor — hardly as "vinous and sprightly" 
as some other varieties, and somewhat subject to rot. When not carefully 
preserved, has a musty taste, and is by no means equal to the Catawba 
either for table use or for wine. 

There is a peculiar character of the Isabella, which is similar to some 
foreign varieties, and have induced the belief that it is of that origin. A 
Mr. J. ToGNO, a vine dresser of Wilmington, N. C, notices this in a com- 
munication on the snbj(!ct. He states " that Mr. Laspeyre sold the grape 
in the market of Wilmington, as a foreign grape, and that it had all the 
character of a European variety ; that it would rot, and did rot with the 
first cultivators of it." The same complaint has been made of it bv other 
cultivators at Cincinnati and elsewhere, but in the valley of the Cx'ooked 
Lake it is still held in high favor as a productive and a marketable variety. 

But the Catawba is deemed quite its superior in flavor and for the manu- 
facture of wine. This grape has its origin in North Carolina. It is found 
growing wild on the Catawba River, in Lincoln county of that State. It 
was first introduced by Mr. Adlum, into cultivation at Georgetown, D. C, 
and from thence by Mr. Longworth to Cincinnati, Ohio. It was first 
named the " Lincoln gr'ipe," from the county where it was first found grow- 
ing wild, but afterwards "Catawba" from the river, on the banks of which it 
was found growing. 

The vines of the Catawba are hardy, strong and vigorous ; the leaves 
are large, and the wood of a reddish color. It is deemed the best wine, 
and table grape in the county. It does not ripen quite as early as the 
Isabella, but is of a more sprightly flavor, and will command a higher price 
in the market. 

The Isabella and Catawba grapes are the standard varieties cultivated 
in the grape growing district of Steuben, and are found to be equally reli- 
able with any other kind. They generally ripen in season to prevent being 



22 

injured by frost ; produce full crops ; and are free from mildew, or any- 
other disease that would impair their value. 

They are also the standard varieties for the city markets ; they sell rea- 
dily, and command remunerative prices. At this present time the Catawba 
sells readily for thirty cents per pound, and extra fine bunches will bring 
thirty-five centi<. 

In all the market stalls for fruits these two varieties of grapes are found 
almost to the exclusion of others, and at the wixe press they are preferred 
as producing the best of wine. 

The Catawba grape is particularly adapted to the manufacture of good 
■wine. It has a peculiar sprightly flavor that imparts to the wine an extra 
value in the estimation of connoiseurs. It is said that some of the low 
priced wines of Europe are bought up by our manufacturers and nut upon 
the Catawba pommace after the juices are drawn of and allowed to ferment 
thereon to impart to them the peculiar tastes of that grape. These wines 
thus improved are sold at advanced prices "as Catawba loiite.^' 

The Diana is of the same family of grapes as the Isabella and Catawba, 
as being "vinous " and " spvightlyj^ It is a seedling of the' Catawba, of 
great purity of flavor, extremely sweet and vinous, and more free from as- 
tringency than the parent grape. This grape was originated by xMrs. Diana 
Crehor of Milton Hill, near Boston. It is extensively cultivated by vine- 
yardists and is highly estimated for its productive habits, and peculiar fine 
flavor. It grows and produces finely in Pleasant Valley and along the 
shore of the Crooked Lake. 

Another grape, a seedling of the Isabella, and of its peculiar color and 
bloom, is the "Union Village,''^ produced by the Shakers of that place. It 
will ripen about ten days earlier than the parent grape. It is of the size 
of the Black Hamburg, and is often mistaken for it. This grape is not ex- 
tensively cultivated in our county, but is worthy of a place in every 
vinej'ard as a wine grape. 

The Delaware, which had its origin at Delaware in Ohio, has often been 
awarded the premium " as the best native grape." It is of a smaller berry 
than the Catawba — is free from astringency — flesh very juicy with some 
consistence, and vinous and sprightly. It is sweet — sweet to its very centre. 

The Delaware is very hardy. It will stand where other grapes have 
been killed to the ground. It is a great bearer, and will increase in pro- 
ductiveness as the vine is cultivated and grows older. It ripens early, 
more so than any other. The stock is somewhat difficult to propagate, 
consequently commands a high price. 

It is highly esteemed as a small table grape and its wine is similar to 
the " wines of the Rhine." 

The Delaware, though not extensively cultivated in Steuben, is held in 
high estimation, and will, in time, receive more general attention as a 
standard variety of the very best. 

The Northern Muscadine is of a " foxy," or rank-flavored variety. It 
ripens its fruit uneven, and the berries will drop as they ripen. It is not 
deemed a good variety for general cultivation. 

The Rebecca is a seedling of the Isabella, grown by Mrs. Peake of Hudson, 



23 

It grows bunches of a medium size, very compact, color green in the shade, 
but of a lively amber in the sun, with a fine bloom. It is extremely sweet 
and luscious. It is a hardy variety, and ripens its fruit early and is well 
suited for extreme northern grape regions. 

The Hartford Prolific is an early grape and extremely hardy. It is not 
equal to the Isabella in flavor, and is generally held in estimation only as 
a hardy variety, that will grow and produce when others will fail. 

The Concord had it origin at Concord, Mass. It has proved perfectly 
hardy and healthy wherever cultivated. It grows bunches compact, 
berries large, almost black, and covered with bloom. The skin is thick, 
flesh juicy and sweet. It is a grape possessed of much "aro?>ia," and is 
deemed good for wine. As this grape will grow in more exposed situa- 
tions than many otliers it is worthy of attention.* 

The Clinton is a hardy variety, grows moderately', is healthy, grows 
bunches small, with round compact berries of a black color and blue bloom. 
It is quite a rambling grower, with berries too small for vineyard purposes 
and a flavor too harsh for table use. It is cultivated to quite a limited ex- 
tent in Pleasant Valley. 

The lona grape to which was awarded the Grcely prize of $100, the re- 
quirements for which " being nothing less than a grape equal to the best 
European kinds, with a vine equal in hardiness of our most enduring native 
varieties," is well (jualified to meet the requirements of the prenaium oftered. 
This grape is a seedling produced by Dr. C. W. Grant of lona Island, and 
is pronounced by the best lovers of good grapes as superior to any. This 
grape has been grown successfully in several parts of the State, and has 
re(!eived favorabe reports from all. It is held in high esteem wherever cul- 
tivated in our county. 

For a very early grape the best is probably the Isrealla, a seedling also 
raised by Dr. Grant, The bunches of this grape are large, and the flesh 
tender and juicy and sweet. It is a good grower, hardy and productive. 
It is probably the best early table grape — fully equal in all respects to 
the Delaware. 

The Urbana Wine Company, incorporated under the general law of the 
State, with a capital of $250,000, has been organized for the purpose of 

* By a series of observations made for a number of years at Waterloo, N. Y., it has been 
seen that those varieties of grapes which had a mean temperature of 69^ during the month fol- 
lowing the stoning process were of a superior quality. Those that had 07° were inferior, and 
those which stoned so late as to have only 65° did not ripen. Of the first class were the Dela- 
ware, Clinton, Diana, Isabella and Rebecca. Of the second class were the Hartford Prolific, 
Union Village, Concord, Catawaba and the To Kalon, and of the class that did not ripen 
were the Anna, Y. Madeira, and Crevelling. From these observation the following deductions 
are made. That the Delaware and Clinton vines require a summer temperature of 66" 5', a hot 
month of 70°, and a September of 60°, or a mean for their growing season of 65°. The Concord, 
Hartford prolific and Diana require a mean of 67°, or a summer heat of 70°, a month of 72, 
and a September at 6.3°. The Isabella requires a mean of 72°, summer, 72°, one month, 73°, 
and a September, 65°. And the Catawba to ripen fully requires a mean during the growing 
season of 72°, or a summer mean of 73°, a hot month of 75, and a September of 65°. The European' 
grapes require a summer mean of 74°, a hot month of 75°, and a September not lower than 75°, 
to ripen fully. A writer states: " The exceptions to the above are found at places influenced by 
water, whose high or moderate September mean may extend into October without intervening 
frosts." 



24 

manufacturing wines and brandies from the grape, for tlie production and 
culture of the best varieties. This company owns about fifty acres in vine- 
yard, and the " Pine Point farm" of 168 acres, all of which is intended to 
be set. A steamboat landing is to be established on the Point, and vaults 
and buildings are to be erected thereon for the use of the association. 

Another wine company is being organized in the town of Pulteney, for 
like purposes, the vaults and buildings of which are to be erected at or 
near George Gibson's, where a wharf, store house and a steamboat landing 
is now established. G. DENNISTON. 



INDEX 



Page, 

Report of committee 4 

History of grape culture in Steuben county 5 

Vineyard — first attempt 8 

Mode of training vines 10 

Pruning 11 

Isabella grape 13 

Pleasant Valley wine company 13 

First vintage 14 

Crooked lake 16 

Kelly island IT 

Grape land and vineyards IT 

Most profitable grapes for wine 18 

Farms turned to vineyards 19 

Varieties of grapes cultivated 21 

Urbana wine company 23 



Mil?' '"Ifl. 



LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 



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